MCP – Another Painting Guide Update!

I wanted to start by saying thank you to all of the people that have got in touch to say they appreciate the guides. It makes my day to hear that people are finding them so helpful. Thanks folks.

I’m still working away on guides, with a couple more core set characters coming your way very soon…

These are all painted with a few changes made form the core set characters I’ve done in the past, and the rest of the core set characters may be a while before they’re tackled. I’m working on a few more conversions that are a bit more involved.

I’m also planning on working on filling some of the gaps. There are a few early characters I’ve not covered yet, and I will be going back to cover Hulk, M.O.D.O.K., Venom, Thanos and the Wakandans when I can. They’ll likely be with a twist on the standard colour scheme or some conversions. Let me know in the comments if theres a particularly cool colour scheme/alt costume you want to see.

I do have a bit of a backlog to tackle before any of that though…

The Inhumans are likely next up on the painting table, but then I would like to tackle some of the terrain. I’ve done some of the terrain from the core set before…

These have given me a bit of practice for the rest and I’m looking at putting together a guide for each of these peices of terrain as well.

Until next time, have a great one!

MCP – She-Hulk Painting Guide

Prep: Fully build the model and undercoat black.

Stage 1

Celestra Grey: Apply a basecoat to the middle of the bodysuit.

Warpstone Glow: Apply a basecoat to the skin.

Warplock Bronze: Apply a basecoat to the girder.

Phoenician Purple: Apply a basecoat to the gloves, boots and outer bodysuit.

Kabalite Green: Apply a basecoat to the hair.

Stage 2

Ulthuan Grey: Apply a layer to the middle of the bodysuit

Druchii Violet: Apply a shade to the skin.

Leadbelcher: Apply a drybrush to the girder.

Xereus Purple: Apply a layer to the gloves, boots and outer bodysuit.

Nuln Oil: Apply a shade to the hair.

Stage 3

White Scar: Apply a highlight to the middle of the bodysuit, also apply a layer to the eyes.

Moot Green: Apply a layer to the skin. Build this up over several thin layers, focussing further up each muscle and feature as you go.

Nuln Oil: Apply a shade to the girder.

Genestealer Purple: Apply a highlight to the gloves, boots and outer bodysuit.

Warpstone Glow: Apply a layer to the hair.

Stage 4

Gauss Blaster Green: Apply a highlight to the skin.

Ironbreaker: Apply a line highlight to the girder.

Dechala Lilac: Apply a line highlight to the gloves, boots and outer bodysuit.

Skarsnik Green: Apply a line highlight to the hair, focussing on the roots and tips.

Finish by painting the base and rocks with the Base Painting guide.

Gallery

MCP – Sabretooth & Wolverine Painting Guide

Prep: Fully build both models and undercoat black.

Sabretooth

Stage 1

XV88: Apply a basecoat to the lighter bodysuit areas.

Rhinox Hide: Apply a basecoat to the darker bodysuit areas.

Zamesi Desert: Apply a basecoat to the hair.

Bugman’s Glow: Apply a basecoat to the skin.

Karak Stone: Apply a basecoat to the fur trim.

Stage 2

Agrax Earthshade: Apply a shade to the light bodysuit, hair and fur trim.

Mournfang Brown: Apply a layer to the darker bodysuit areas.

Cadian Fleshtone; Apply a layer to the skin.

Stage 3

Balor Brown: Apply a layer to the lighter bodysuit areas, focussing towards the tops of the muscles and features.

Steel Legion Drab: Apply a line highlight to the darker bodysuit areas.

Blonde Hair 9257(MSP): Apply a layer to the hair.

Basic Skintone 70.815(Vallejo): Apply a layer to the skin.

Karak Stone: Apply a layer to the fur trim.

Bloodletter: Apply a glaze to the mouth.

Stage 4

Krieg Khaki: Apply a highlight to the muscles and features of the lighter bodysuit areas.

Karak Stone: Apply a spot highlight to the darker bodysuit areas.

Blonde Highlight 9258(MSP): Apply a spot highlight to the hair.

Light Flesh 70.928(Vallejo): Apply a spot highlight to the skin.

Pallid Wych Flesh: Apply a highlight to the fur trim and a layer to the teeth.

White Scar: Apply a layer to the eyes.

Finish by painting the base and rocks with the Base Painting guide.

Wolverine

Stage 1

Averland Sunset: Apply a layer to the bodysuit.

Caledor Sky: Apply a basecoat to the shoulders, gloves, boots and pants.

Leadbelcher: Apply a basecoat to the claws.

Bugman’s Glow: Apply a basecoat to the skin.

Mournfang Brown: Apply a basecoat to the belt.

Incubi Darkness: Apply a basecoat to the mask and stripes.

Stage 2

Agrax Earthshade: Apply a shade to the bodysuit.

Nuln Oil: Apply a shade to the blues.

Cadian Fleshtone: Apply a layer to the skin.

Thunderhawk Blue: Apply a layer to the mask and stripes, focussing towards the edges.

Stage 3

Yriel Yellow: Apply a layer to the bodysuit.

Teclis Blue: Apply a layer to the blues.

Ironbreaker: Apply a layer to the claws.

Basic Skintone 70.815(Vallejo): Apply a layer to the skin.

Skrag Brown: Apply a line highlight to the belt.

Dawnstone: Apply a line highlight to the mask and stripes.

Bloodletter: Apply a glaze to the mouth.

Evil Sunz Scarlet: Apply a layer to the interior of the buckle.

Stage 4

Dorn Yellow: Apply a line highlight to the bodysuit.

Temple Guard Blue: Apply a line highlight to the blues.

Stormhost Silver: Apply a layer to the claws.

Light Flesh 70.928(Vallejo): Apply a spot highlight to the skin.

Deathclaw Brown: Apply a spot highlight to the belt.

Celestra Grey: Apply a spot highlight to the mask and stripes.

Pallid Wych Flesh: Apply a layer to the teeth.

White Scar: Apply a layer to the eyes.

Finish by painting the base and rocks with the Base Painting guide.

Gallery

Necromunda – Underhive Base Painting Guide

I wanted to share how I achieved the bases for my Necromunda models. I wanted something a little distinct from the usual metal bases and what better way to do that than ancient rusted up bases. I also added a wee touch of spot colour, with the green ooze under the grates.

I started with a black undercoat to get things started, but here’s how I cheived the rest…

I began with a basecoat of Mournfang Brown.

This was followed by a heavy drybrush of Skrag Brown.

Then apply a lighter drybrush of Deathclaw Brown.

Apply an edge highlight to all the hard edges and stipple small amounts over the flat areas.

Make a mix of 1 part Moot Green to around 3 parts water and flood the grating up to the level of the higher lip.

Make a mix of 1 part Gauss Blaster Green and 3 parts water. This time use the mix to flood only each individual section.

Make a mix of 1 part Guass Blaster Green and 1 part Ceramite White. Apply carefully down the centre of each rectangle and along the edges.

Apply a light glaze of Waywatcher Green.

Apply a layer of Abaddon Black to the rims.

I used Kromlech’s Soot Black pigment to add a touch of weathering to finish off the bases.

You should now have some funky bases for your gangers. I’ll be back soon with some more ideas on how to base your gangs.

Necromunda – ‘Gellion’ Pattern Energy Shield Guide

My Van Saar have a unique bit of kit, which I’m gonna write into thier back story, and I’ve been asked how it was done. So here is a guide on building your own ‘Gellion’ pattern energy shield to put to good use against the enemies of Van Saar!

What you’ll need…

  • ‘Hystrar’ pattern energy shield. The standard one from the Van Saar gang box is perfect.
  • Servo skull. These are quite easy to come by on bits sites and ebay, and there’s quite a few variations out there.
  • ‘Thrusters’ I used a Necron weapon part, but you could use anything that fits the theme

Step 1

Begin by removing the back of the skull and the house emblem from the shield front. Make sure to file these flat so they will sit flush.

Step 2

Glue the skull to the shield front, centered where the house emblem was. I chose to glue them to oriente the shield horizontally, to change things up you could affix it so the shield is vertical.

Step 4

On the back of the shield you’ll need to shave down the plug or it will not fit in place properly.

Step 5

Get your ‘thruster’ ready. I made sure the connection point was flat.

Step 6

Affix your thruster to the back off the energy shield. Before gluing anything dry fit the front and back to make sure everything is the orientation that you want it.

Step 7

Once all the glue is dry you should be able to stick the peices together giving you your energy shield.

I didn’t glue the peices together, as I want to be able to remove the acrylic shield section for painting.

I did however glue the skull part to one of my champions, and if you have not seen them already, take a look at a gallery of the other energy shields below…

A Month in Pictures – January 2019!

Into another year and onto painting even more cool models. I have to admit that I took a bit of a rest during January to recharge the old batteries a bit. But I still managed to get paint to brush to model and finished painting some cool models.

The main job I was working on was a painting guide for Modiphius’s Fallout: Wasteland Warfare game, which can be found in Tabletop Gaming Magazine. Take a look at the survivors I painted below…

Models Painted: 6

2019 Total: 6

Middle Earth SBG – Ancient Ruins Painting Guide

This guide is ideally suited for painting the bases I showed you how to make in this tutorial.

I’ve used the same basing technique for both my Azog’s Legion and my White Council, but with a few subtle changes to the painting in order to give them a different character. I’ll be going through the stages for both in full but there are only a few differences between them, but you’ll notice from the picture they end up looking fairly different.

Eerie Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Death World Forest
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Dark Green Leaves

Begin by basecoating the base with Sotek Green, then apply a heavy drybrush of Eshin Grey

Apply a medium drybrush of Dawnstone

Apply a light drybrush of Ionach Skin

Apply an edge highlight to the tiles with Pallid Wych Flesh

Make a mix of 1 part Chocolate Brown and 5 parts water and apply over the sanded areas

Make a similar mix with Death World Forest and apply over select areas of the sand

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone I’ve the sand and edges of the cork

Apply a very light drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to the sand

Apply some of the mountain tufts to the base

Use PVA to apply the grass around the tufts and across the sandy areas

Finally use PVA glue to affix some leaves to the base. This can be a little fiddly so I would recommend some tweazers

Dark Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Autumn Leaves
  • Alclad II ‘mud’ weathering pigment

Apply a basecoat of Rhinox Hide to the base and once dry apply a medium drybrush of Eshin Grey across the base

Apply a light drybrush of Dawnstone, focussing on the edges of the tiles

Apply a very light drybrush of Ionach Skin to the edges of the tiles

Apply an edge highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh to the tiles

Use the same Chocolate Brown mix found in the Eerie Ruins guide and apply to the sand areas and exposed cork

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone to the sand and exposed cork

Apply a very light Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush to the sand and exposed cork

Apply the mountain tufts to the base

Apply a light dusting of weathering powder to the top and edges

Use PVA to affix some autumn leaves to the base to finish

 

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Middle Earth SBG – Ancient Ruins Basing Tutorial

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I absolutely love going to town on the basing of my miniatures. It’s just another excuse to add some character, variety and unification to your armies. It’s all about adding that story that really brings your miniatures to life.

The most recent basing I have been doing is for my Azog’s Legion force and today I’m going to show you what you need and how to go about making them.

I’ll be doing a series of tutorials on basing, both the modelling and the painting, so look out for future articles.

What you will need:

  • Cork Roll. I use a 2.5mm thickness, like this. This is readily available from most hobby stores, so if you do have a model train store nearby pop in and take a look. Just one of these rolls will easily last you the whole army.
  • Plasticard. I have so far been using a fairly thin, 1mm, variety. This does make it a bit easier to cut and model, but doesn’t look quite as good as a thocker variety.
  • Sand. I used Fine Sand from Basecrafts.
  • Mixed cork. Used for detailing. Can be found here, or like the cork roll can be found in hhobby stores.
  • PVA
  • Super Glue
  • Clippers
  • Modelling Knife

Building the Bases

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Begin by breaking the cork roll down into smaller, circular sections. I used the base as a template and broke the cork off around the edge. Always make more than required as these can be used for extra levels and details.

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Glue one of the circles to the top of the base with superglue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Once dry this will give you your first layer.

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Due to some of the drying times involved I’ll always build a few bases at a time, usually enough for a warband.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cut the plasticard down into small rectangular and square shapes. They don’t need to be uniform as the ruins are quite, well…ruined.

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Using super glue attach each segment at a time to build up the paving on top of the cork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Clip off the excess plasticard around the edge of the base. The aim is to keep to the circle but still retain an angular look.

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That’s the second layer done. Normally I would attach figures at this point. It can limit your ability to paint the base but does ensure the mini will be a good fit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Next up is weathering the plasticard. Using the modelling knife make scratches across the surface. The more you add the more beaten up the ruins will look.

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Also use the knife to shave down the edges and add some bigger cuts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Use super glue to add a few peices of the mixed cork across the bases.

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Use PVA to add some of the fine sand onto small areas of the bases. I focussed on any cork visible on the top, around the mixed corks and in the cracks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Once the pva was dry I added a layer to seal in the sand. This was acheived with a mix of 1 part PVA to 6 parts water. I add this to all my bases that include sand as it really secures everything and cuts down on wear and tear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The beauty of the cork is it’s quite an easy material to cut and craft into unique features.

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A simple slice like this and both parts can be used to make a staircase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Glued one on top of the other they add that extra dimension and retain the circle shape.

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You can utilise this to make some pretty funky and diverse ruins. Just remember to test fit your miniatures so you know they will fit and loook good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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you will need to cut the plasticard to fit the middle step, but the bottom and top can overhang to be cut down.

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From there it’s just finishing them up just like the others by adding mixed cork, sand and a seal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And there you have it. This is how I built and will continue to build all the bases for my Azog’s Legion force. I hope you all find it usual and I would love to see some of the bases you make using it, pop me an email at deathwatchstudios@gmail.com, find me on Facebook or Instagram.

Join me soon to find out just how I painted them as well.

All of my guides will continue to be free and open for use by anyone, but if you did find this guide helpful please support me with a donation, so I can continue to make great tutorials like this one!

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