This month’s issue of Tabletop Gaming is in stores now and within you can find my article on how to paint some of the forces of good, Harry, Ron & Hermoine alongside the Order of the Pheonix…
Get your copy here.
I wanted to share how I achieved the bases for my Necromunda models. I wanted something a little distinct from the usual metal bases and what better way to do that than ancient rusted up bases. I also added a wee touch of spot colour, with the green ooze under the grates.
I started with a black undercoat to get things started, but here’s how I cheived the rest…
I began with a basecoat of Mournfang Brown.
This was followed by a heavy drybrush of Skrag Brown.
Then apply a lighter drybrush of Deathclaw Brown.
Apply an edge highlight to all the hard edges and stipple small amounts over the flat areas.
Make a mix of 1 part Moot Green to around 3 parts water and flood the grating up to the level of the higher lip.
Make a mix of 1 part Gauss Blaster Green and 3 parts water. This time use the mix to flood only each individual section.
Make a mix of 1 part Guass Blaster Green and 1 part Ceramite White. Apply carefully down the centre of each rectangle and along the edges.
Apply a light glaze of Waywatcher Green.
Apply a layer of Abaddon Black to the rims.
I used Kromlech’s Soot Black pigment to add a touch of weathering to finish off the bases.
You should now have some funky bases for your gangers. I’ll be back soon with some more ideas on how to base your gangs.
This guide is ideally suited for painting the bases I showed you how to make in this tutorial.
I’ve used the same basing technique for both my Azog’s Legion and my White Council, but with a few subtle changes to the painting in order to give them a different character. I’ll be going through the stages for both in full but there are only a few differences between them, but you’ll notice from the picture they end up looking fairly different.
What you will need:
What you will need:
With the main bulk of my Plague force fully painted and ready to rip some faces off, I thought I would share the methods I used to get them looking how I did these guys…
Flesh: Basecoat of Pallid Wych Flesh
Wash of 3:1 Druchii Violet and Lahmian Medium
Wait for the previous wash to dry and add a light wash of 3:1 Drakenhof Nightshade and Lahmian Medium
Once dry add a fine highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh
Blue trousers: Basecoat Kantor Blue
Highlight of Altdorf Guard Blue
Highlight 1:1 Altdorf Guard Blue and White
Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Altdorf Guard Blue
Orangey Brown Sectons: Basecoat Tau Light Ochre
Wash of Agrax Earthshade
Highlight of Tau Light Ochre
Fine highlight of 1:1 Tau Light Ochre and Pallid Wych Flesh
Guns, Blades & Metals: Basecoat of Doombull Brown
Stipple on Trollslayer Orange then Fire Dragon Bright
Lightly drybrush Leadbelcher to the edges
Wash of Agrax Earthshade
Fine highlight of Leadbelcher to some of the edges and stippled onto larger areas
Green Spines & Armour Plates: Basecoat of Caliban Green
Highlight of Snot Green
Highlight of Moot Green
Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Moot Green
Glowy Green Faces: Add a coat of watered down Moot Green on and around the eyes and mouth. This should be about 5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Allow to dry and then add a coat of 3:1:1 Water, Moot Green and White, leaving the outer most parts the original colour
To finish off add a dab of 3:1 White and Moot Green to the centre
Jackets, Straps and Pouches: Basecoat in Black
Add a highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey
Highlight with Codex Grey
Fine Highlight of Celestra Grey
Wash with Badab Black
Belt Buckles: Basecoat XV88
Highlight with 2:1 XV88 and Yriel Yellow
Highlight Yriel Yellow
Fine Highlight 1:1 Yriel Yellow and White
Bases: The first step for my bases was done before any undercoating and was as simple as adding a coat of the GW texture paint Astrogranite. This gives it the texture, but with enough spacing between them to feel like a concrete surface. It also has the added bonus of filling and hiding the seam around the circular section around the feet and the slot in the base.
Once the rest of the figure was painted I then moved onto the base as the last step.
First was a basecoat of Mechanicus Standard Grey
Then a drybrush of Codex Grey
Another drybrush this time with Clestial Grey
And a final drybrush of Terminatus Stone
To make it feel a bit more natural I then added a coat of watered down Dryad Bark to most of the base. I reccomend a very thin coat, at least 5:1 Water and Dryad Bark
I then added small patches of a 5:1 mix of Water and Doombull brown to add further variation.
Finally I painted the rims of the bases black to tidy them up a bit.
And there you have it, nice and simple but good looking none the less, even if I do say so myself 😀
If I happened to miss anything that you want to know about, just leave me a comment 🙂
Here’s a guide as to how I panted up my Rebs Force.
The first thing to say is there were a few basic colours that stayed the same throughout the force; the armour, blacks, reds, metals and leather. So here’s a rundown of how those colours were achieved:
Armour: The armour was painted in the same fashion as my Deadzone terrain. Take a look HERE to see how that was acheived.
Blacks: Basecoat with Abaddon Black
Highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise focussing on the top edge of the folds and raised areas
Highlight of Codex Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise
Fine Highlight of Fortress Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise
Was of Nuln oil mixed with a bit of Lahmian Medium
Reds: Over the Khorne Red base:
Layer of Mephiston Red leaving the recesses the original colour
Highlight of Evil Sun Scarlet
Highlight of 1:1 Evil Sun Scarlet and Tau Light Ochre
and finally a glaze of Bloodletter
Metals: Basecoat of Leadbelcher
Wash of Agrax Earthshade
Wash of 4:1 water and Tallarn Sand
Leather: Over a Dryad Bark base I added two highlights
The first is 2:1 Dryad bark and Ushabti Bone
The second 1:1 Dryad bark and Ushabti Bone
Grogan Flesh: Basecoat of Zamesi Desert followed by a Seraphim Sepia wash
Once dry apply a coat of Zamesi Desert leaving the recesses the basecoat colour
Highlight of 2:1 Zamasi Desert and Menoth White Highlight
Fine Highlight of 1:1 Zamasi Desert and Menoth White Highlight
Yndij Flesh: Doombull Brown basecoat followed by an Agrax Earthshade wash
Once dry apply a light coat of Mephiston Red, leaving the recesses and a little bit of the underside sections the original colour
Evil Sun Scarlet highlight
Thinned Tau Light Ochre fine highlight
Sorak Flesh: Basecoat of Genestealer Purple followed by a Druchii Violet Wash
Once dry apply a coat of Genestealer Purple leaving the bascoat colour in the recesses
Highlight with a 2:1 mix of Genestealer Purple and Menoth White Highlight
Fine Highlight of 1:1 mix of Genestealer Purple and Menoth White Highlight
Human Flesh: Basecoat of 2:1 mix of Rakkarth Flesh and Pink Horror followed by a light Agrax Earthshade wash
Add a coat of 1:1:1 Rakkarth Flesh, Pink horror and Menoth White Highlight but leave the recesses the basecoat colour
Add a small amount of Menoth White Highlight to this mix and add a Highlight
Black Human Flesh: Basecoat of Doombull Brown followed by a light wash of Agrax Earthshade
Coat of 2:1 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone leaving the recesses the base colour
Highlight of 1:1 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone
Fine Highlight of 1:2 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone
Judwan Flesh: 2:1 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakkarth Flesh followed by a light wash of Seraphim Sepia
Coat of 3:2 Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakkarth Flesh leaving the recesses the base colour
Highlight of 2:1 Codex Grey and Rakkarth Flesh
Fine Highlight of 1:1 Fortress Grey and Rakkarth Flesh
Kraaw Flesh: Basecoat of Zamesi Desert followed by a wash of Seraphim Sepia
Layer of Zamesi Desert leaving the recesses the basecoat colour
Highlight of 2:1 Zamesi Desert and Menoth White Highlight
Fine highlight of 1:1 Zamesi Desert and Menoth White Highlight
Sphyr Flesh: Basecoat all over of Lothern Blue followed by a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade
Add a coat of Lothern Blue but leave the recesses the basecoat colour
Highlight of 2:1 Lothern Blue and Menoth White Highlight
Highlight 1:1 Lothern Blue and Menoth White Highlight
Zee Flesh: Basecoat of 2:1 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh, followed by a light wash of Seraphim Sepia
Highlight of 3:2 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh
Highlight of 1:1 Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh
Teraton Flesh: Basecoat of Sotek Green followed by a Drakenhof Nightshade wash
Once dry apply a coat of Sotek Green in fine lines whilst leaving the recesses the basecoat colour
Highlight the fine lines with a 2:1 mix of Sotek Green and Menoth White Highlight
Highlight the lines with a 1:1 mix of Sotek Green and Menoth White Highlight
Blue Glowy Bits: Wash of 3:1 water and Lothern Blue about 1-2mm out from and over the ‘source’
Coat of Lothern Blue over the ‘source’
Coat of 2:1 Lothern Blue and Ceramite White leaving the edges the original colur
Final coat of 1:1 Lothern Blue and Ceramite White in the centre of the ‘source’
Lenses/Screens: I use the same method for these no matter the colour using a Dark, Medium and Light version of whatever colour I would like them to be…
Basecoat of Dark
Highlight of Medium but keeping to the bottom and right
Fine Highlight of Light again to the bottom and right
Final dot of 1:1 Light and Ceramite White on the bottom right corner
A tiny dot of white in the top left corner and a coat of gloss varnish can be used to further enhance this
And there you have it, thats pretty much how I painted my Rebs force. I hope this helps anyone else looking to get the same or a similar effect 🙂
Continuing on from the other days post on the Deadzone terrain; Part 1, I’m going to continue to show you how I painted up my set of terrain.
We left off with the salt still on the model, but the main colours laid down. Removing the salt is a fairly easy process, all you need is a mug of hot water and a light brush. The first step is to paint a coat of water over the whole of the model very gently and leave to soak in for a few minutes. Following this it’s a case of wetting the brush and lightly going over the areas where you can see salt. It should start to lift off fairly easily. For some more pronounced areas of chipping you can use a harder brush, such as a drybrush, to brush away the paint rather than just relying on the salt to give the effect. Most of the larger areas you’ll see on my terrain were created by doing this.
Once you have the desired areas taken away it’s worth leaving the model to cool and then give it a quick rinse under the tap. This helps clear away any residue left over by the process.
Once all that was done I ended up with something that looks like this:
The next stage is to make it look a little nicer with some highlights. Using Ceramite white I gave it a fine edge highlight along the top of all the hard edges. Also to give a 3d effect to the paint chips I added a highlight to the bottom edge of each wee bit. This can take a wee while, but the effect you get from it is definitely worthwhile, and if your doing salt masking I would say essential. This is how it turned out:
The next stage was all of the metals. To start them off I gave them a good basecoat of Warplock Bronze:
At this stage the bulk of the work is done and the terrain looks pretty good, but to really make it pop there was a few bits of detailing still to add. The first of these was a little bit more airbrushing, although drybrushing would certainly work just as well for them. I started by giving them a light dusting of Mechanicus Standard Grey along any section that would be touching the ground, this was to represent general dust and dirt kicked up around the buildings. The second was a dusting of XV-88 mixed with a little Dryad Bark sporadically over the terrain to add to the grimy, used nature of the buildings:
A also used the same colours and effect on the tops of some of the terrain and the walkways to try and show the areas in which troops would have been moving about and the dirt and grime from there boots has dirtied the ground:
Another touch I wanted to add was some weapon fire effects/burning. I used the same brown as previously to set down a base, adding small dots for laser fire markings and a larger area on some of the vents:
Next up was blood splatter. Gotta have some blood splatter 🙂
I used the GW technical paint BLood for the Blood God for this, and have to say it is fantastic. Straight out the pot it looks great. The main difficult thing about it is just getting the shape and consistency of the splatter looking like it actually would. I would recommend taking it slow and steady, but also looking at some resources to see how real blood splatters. It sounds grim, but it helps. You also want to remember gravity, the blood will inevitably drip downwards if there’s any great amount so keep that in mind. Here’s a few examples of the effect I got:
I used some clear plastic packaging I had lying about cut up with a pair of scissors. It’s fairly simple to do, just cutting at angles and making sure it all is fairly straight and jagged. Before gluing always check to make sure you have a good fit, and it looks good in place. Once checked I just used a small dab of super glue to fix them in place. Honestly it can look a little haphazard from the back, which is why I’ve stuck with adding it to terrain pieces you can’t really see inside. Here’s an example of one of the set’s I put together:
Look out later in the week for some pictures of the whole lot together 🙂
I’ve been working through getting all the terrain painted up for my set of Deadzone and wanted to give everybody a run through as to how I have been doing it from start to finish. This first part will be focusing on the main colour whilst I will be doing another couple of parts later on this week on the rest of the main colours as well as some of the detailing.
Construction: Before starting the painting I chose to glue all of the buildings, barricades and structures together. Whilst the clips are a useful idea ie being able to dismantle terrain after each battle/build them in different configurations, I felt this would be far too time consuming as well as leading to damaged clips needing replaced on a regular basis. Whilst I still used the clips in most instances to add some strength in areas, some sections where just glued on where there was enough support already (ceilings primarily). The only sections I didn’t glue together were each story of multi story structures. This allowed a bit more flexability when playing games, if for instance someone wanted to place a model inside, they didnt have to squeeze them through a window or door.
Painting: The first stage in getting the buildings painted up was an undercoat. I went with black:
This is were I began the saltmasking, a technique I’ve used on all of my Rebs and a fair bit over the last few months. The first tutorial I used to get some help with this was found on Youtube, and you can see this here. I also found Whitewolves blog entry for this fairly useful, especially since it was the same kit.
The way I’ve done it was to give the terrain piece a healthy coat of hairspray (just a bog standard, cheap can from the supermarket), and sprinkle some salt over the areas I was looking for the weathering:
I usually left this to dry for at least a couple of hours, just to be sure, but once dry its onto the top coat. This is were an airbrush comes in very handy and I would maybe even go so far as to say it is essential. You need very thin coats on top of the salt in order for you still to be able to remove it easily. So with airbrush in hand I gave the whole thing a coat of Rakkarth Flesh: