Middle Earth SBG – Ancient Ruins Painting Guide

This guide is ideally suited for painting the bases I showed you how to make in this tutorial.

I’ve used the same basing technique for both my Azog’s Legion and my White Council, but with a few subtle changes to the painting in order to give them a different character. I’ll be going through the stages for both in full but there are only a few differences between them, but you’ll notice from the picture they end up looking fairly different.

Eerie Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Death World Forest
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Dark Green Leaves

Begin by basecoating the base with Sotek Green, then apply a heavy drybrush of Eshin Grey

Apply a medium drybrush of Dawnstone

Apply a light drybrush of Ionach Skin

Apply an edge highlight to the tiles with Pallid Wych Flesh

Make a mix of 1 part Chocolate Brown and 5 parts water and apply over the sanded areas

Make a similar mix with Death World Forest and apply over select areas of the sand

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone I’ve the sand and edges of the cork

Apply a very light drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to the sand

Apply some of the mountain tufts to the base

Use PVA to apply the grass around the tufts and across the sandy areas

Finally use PVA glue to affix some leaves to the base. This can be a little fiddly so I would recommend some tweazers

Dark Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Autumn Leaves
  • Alclad II ‘mud’ weathering pigment

Apply a basecoat of Rhinox Hide to the base and once dry apply a medium drybrush of Eshin Grey across the base

Apply a light drybrush of Dawnstone, focussing on the edges of the tiles

Apply a very light drybrush of Ionach Skin to the edges of the tiles

Apply an edge highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh to the tiles

Use the same Chocolate Brown mix found in the Eerie Ruins guide and apply to the sand areas and exposed cork

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone to the sand and exposed cork

Apply a very light Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush to the sand and exposed cork

Apply the mountain tufts to the base

Apply a light dusting of weathering powder to the top and edges

Use PVA to affix some autumn leaves to the base to finish


All of my guides and articles will continue to be free and open for use by anyone, but if you did find this guide helpful why not buy me a coffee?



Deadzone – Plague Painting Guide!

With the main bulk of my Plague force fully painted and ready to rip some faces off, I thought I would share the methods I used to get them looking how I did these guys…



Flesh: Basecoat of Pallid Wych Flesh

Wash of 3:1 Druchii Violet and Lahmian Medium

Wait for the previous wash to dry and add a light wash of 3:1 Drakenhof Nightshade and Lahmian Medium

Once dry add a fine highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh


Blue trousers: Basecoat Kantor Blue

Highlight of Altdorf Guard Blue

Highlight 1:1 Altdorf Guard Blue and White

Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Altdorf Guard Blue


Orangey Brown Sectons: Basecoat Tau Light Ochre

Wash of Agrax Earthshade

Highlight of Tau Light Ochre

Fine highlight of 1:1 Tau Light Ochre and Pallid Wych Flesh


Guns, Blades & Metals: Basecoat of Doombull Brown

Stipple on Trollslayer Orange then Fire Dragon Bright

Lightly drybrush Leadbelcher to the edges

Wash of Agrax Earthshade

Fine highlight of Leadbelcher to some of the edges and stippled onto larger areas


Green Spines & Armour Plates: Basecoat of Caliban Green

Highlight of Snot Green

Highlight of Moot Green

Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Moot Green


Glowy Green Faces: Add a coat of watered down Moot Green on and around the eyes and mouth. This should be about 5 parts water to 1 part paint.

Allow to dry and then add a coat of 3:1:1 Water, Moot Green and White, leaving the outer most parts the original colour

To finish off add a dab of 3:1 White and Moot Green to the centre


Jackets, Straps and Pouches: Basecoat in Black

Add a highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey

Highlight with Codex Grey

Fine Highlight of Celestra Grey

Wash with Badab Black


Belt Buckles: Basecoat XV88

Highlight with 2:1 XV88 and Yriel Yellow

Highlight Yriel Yellow

Fine Highlight 1:1 Yriel Yellow and White


Bases: The first step for my bases was done before any undercoating and was as simple as adding a coat of the GW texture paint Astrogranite. This gives it the texture, but with enough spacing between them to feel like a concrete surface. It also has the added bonus of filling and hiding the seam around the circular section around the feet and the slot in the base.

Once the rest of the figure was painted I then moved onto the base as the last step.

First was a basecoat of Mechanicus Standard Grey

Then a drybrush of Codex Grey

Another drybrush this time with Clestial Grey

And a final drybrush of Terminatus Stone

To make it feel a bit more natural I then added a coat of watered down Dryad Bark to most of the base. I reccomend a very thin coat, at least 5:1 Water and Dryad Bark

I then added small patches of a 5:1 mix of Water and Doombull brown to add further variation.

Finally I painted the rims of the bases black to tidy them up a bit.

And there you have it, nice and simple but good looking none the less, even if I do say so myself 😀

If I happened to miss anything that you want to know about, just leave me a comment 🙂

Deadzone – Rebs Painting Guide!


Here’s a guide as to how I panted up my Rebs Force.

The first thing to say is there were a few basic colours that stayed the same throughout the force; the armour, blacks, reds, metals and leather. So here’s a rundown of how those colours were achieved:


Armour: The armour was painted in the same fashion as my Deadzone terrain. Take a look HERE to see how that was acheived.


Blacks: Basecoat with Abaddon Black

Highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise focussing on the top edge of the folds and raised areas

Highlight of Codex Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise

Fine Highlight of Fortress Grey with a touch of Hawk Turquoise

Was of Nuln oil mixed with a bit of Lahmian Medium


Reds: Over the Khorne Red base:

Layer of Mephiston Red leaving the recesses the original colour

Highlight of Evil Sun Scarlet

Highlight of 1:1 Evil Sun Scarlet and Tau Light Ochre

and finally a glaze of Bloodletter


Metals: Basecoat of Leadbelcher

Wash of Agrax Earthshade

Wash of 4:1 water and Tallarn Sand


Leather: Over a Dryad Bark base I added two highlights

The first is 2:1 Dryad bark and Ushabti Bone

The second 1:1 Dryad bark and Ushabti Bone

The rest is mainly the flesh of the different species and other small details which I’ll go into here:Grogan2

Grogan Flesh: Basecoat of Zamesi Desert followed by a Seraphim Sepia wash

Once dry apply a coat of Zamesi Desert leaving the recesses the basecoat colour

Highlight of 2:1 Zamasi Desert and Menoth White Highlight

Fine Highlight of 1:1 Zamasi Desert and Menoth White Highlight


Yndij Flesh: Doombull Brown basecoat followed by an Agrax Earthshade wash

Once dry apply a light coat of Mephiston Red, leaving the recesses and a little bit of the underside sections the original colour

Evil Sun Scarlet highlight

Thinned Tau Light Ochre fine highlight

Bloodletter glaze


Sorak Flesh: Basecoat of Genestealer Purple followed by a Druchii Violet Wash

Once dry apply a coat of Genestealer Purple leaving the bascoat colour in the recesses

Highlight with a 2:1 mix of Genestealer Purple and Menoth White Highlight

Fine Highlight of 1:1 mix of Genestealer Purple and Menoth White Highlight


Human Flesh: Basecoat of 2:1 mix of Rakkarth Flesh and Pink Horror followed by a light Agrax Earthshade wash

Add a coat of 1:1:1 Rakkarth Flesh, Pink horror and Menoth White Highlight but leave the recesses the basecoat colour

Add a small amount of Menoth White Highlight to this mix and add a Highlight


Black Human Flesh: Basecoat of Doombull Brown followed by a light wash of Agrax Earthshade

Coat of 2:1 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone leaving the recesses the base colour

Highlight of 1:1 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone

Fine Highlight of 1:2 Doombull Brown and Ushabti Bone


Judwan Flesh: 2:1 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakkarth Flesh followed by a light wash of Seraphim Sepia

Coat of 3:2 Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakkarth Flesh leaving the recesses the base colour

Highlight of 2:1 Codex Grey and Rakkarth Flesh

Fine Highlight of 1:1 Fortress Grey and Rakkarth Flesh


Kraaw Flesh: Basecoat of Zamesi Desert followed by a wash of Seraphim Sepia

Layer of Zamesi Desert leaving the recesses the basecoat colour

Highlight of 2:1 Zamesi Desert and Menoth White Highlight

Fine highlight of 1:1 Zamesi Desert and Menoth White Highlight


Sphyr Flesh: Basecoat all over of Lothern Blue followed by a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade

Add a coat of Lothern Blue but leave the recesses the basecoat colour

Highlight of 2:1 Lothern Blue and Menoth White Highlight

Highlight 1:1 Lothern Blue and Menoth White Highlight


Zee Flesh: Basecoat of 2:1 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh, followed by a light wash of Seraphim Sepia

Highlight of 3:2 mix of Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh

Highlight of 1:1 Mechanicus Standard Grey and Rakarth Flesh


Teraton Flesh: Basecoat of Sotek Green followed by a Drakenhof Nightshade wash

Once dry apply a coat of Sotek Green in fine lines whilst leaving the recesses the basecoat colour

Highlight the fine lines with a 2:1 mix of Sotek Green and Menoth White Highlight

Highlight the lines with a 1:1 mix of Sotek Green and Menoth White Highlight


Blue Glowy Bits: Wash of 3:1 water and Lothern Blue about 1-2mm out from and over the ‘source’

Coat of Lothern Blue over the ‘source’

Coat of 2:1 Lothern Blue and Ceramite White leaving the edges the original colur

Final coat of 1:1 Lothern Blue and Ceramite White in the centre of the ‘source’


Lenses/Screens: I use the same method for these no matter the colour using a Dark, Medium and Light version of whatever colour I would like them to be…

Basecoat of Dark

Highlight of Medium but keeping to the bottom and right

Fine Highlight of Light again to the bottom and right

Final dot of 1:1 Light and Ceramite White on the bottom right corner

A tiny dot of white in the top left corner and a coat of gloss varnish can be used to further enhance this

And there you have it, thats pretty much how I painted my Rebs force. I hope this helps anyone else looking to get the same or a similar effect 🙂

Tutorial – Deadzone Terrain Part 2

Continuing on from the other days post on the Deadzone terrain; Part 1, I’m going to continue to show you how I painted up my set of terrain.

We left off with the salt still on the model, but the main colours laid down. Removing the salt is a fairly easy process, all you need is a mug of hot water and a light brush. The first step is to paint a coat of water over the whole of the model very gently and leave to soak in for a few minutes. Following this it’s a case of wetting the brush and lightly going over the areas where you can see salt. It should start to lift off fairly easily. For some more pronounced areas of chipping you can use a harder brush, such as a drybrush, to brush away the paint rather than just relying on the salt to give the effect. Most of the larger areas you’ll see on my terrain were created by doing this.

Once you have the desired areas taken away it’s worth leaving the model to cool and then give it a quick rinse under the tap. This helps clear away any residue left over by the process.

Once all that was done I ended up with something that looks like this:

Terrain-guide-6The next stage is to make it look a little nicer with some highlights. Using Ceramite white I gave it a fine edge highlight along the top of all the hard edges. Also to give a 3d effect to the paint chips I added a highlight to the bottom edge of each wee bit. This can take a wee while, but the effect you get from it is definitely worthwhile, and if your doing salt masking I would say essential. This is how it turned out:

Terrain-guide-7As you can see it really enhances the whole look 🙂

The next stage was all of the metals. To start them off I gave them a good basecoat of Warplock Bronze:

Terrain-Guide-8Which was followed by a drybrush of Leadbelcher:

Terrain-guide-9To finish this off and tone it back a little it was then given a wash of Agrax Earthshade.

At this stage the bulk of the work is done and the terrain looks pretty good, but to really make it pop there was a few bits of detailing still to add. The first of these was a little bit more airbrushing, although drybrushing would certainly work just as well for them. I started by giving them a light dusting of Mechanicus Standard Grey along any section that would be touching the ground, this was to represent general dust and dirt kicked up around the buildings. The second was a dusting of XV-88 mixed with a little Dryad Bark sporadically over the terrain to add to the grimy, used nature of the buildings:

Terrain-guide-10A also used the same colours and effect on the tops of some of the terrain and the walkways to try and show the areas in which troops would have been moving about and the dirt and grime from there boots has dirtied the ground:

Terrain-guide-16Another touch I wanted to add was some weapon fire effects/burning. I used the same brown as previously to set down a base, adding small dots for laser fire markings and a larger area on some of the vents:

Terrain-guide-11 Terrain-guide-14I then added some black to the mix and added a smaller amount in the centre to finish off the effect.

Next up was blood splatter. Gotta have some blood splatter 🙂

I used the GW technical paint BLood for the Blood God for this, and have to say it is fantastic. Straight out the pot it looks great. The main difficult thing about it is just getting the shape and consistency of the splatter looking like it actually would. I would recommend taking it slow and steady, but also looking at some resources to see how real blood splatters. It sounds grim, but it helps. You also want to remember gravity, the blood will inevitably drip downwards if there’s any great amount so keep that in mind. Here’s a few examples of the effect I got:

Terrain-guide-12 Terrain-guide-13 Terrain-guide-15The final thing I wanted to add was broken windows. I can’t remember where I first saw this being used with the Deadzone terrain, but the idea just grabbed me and wouldn’t let go.

I used some clear plastic packaging I had lying about cut up with a pair of scissors. It’s fairly simple to do, just cutting at angles and making sure it all is fairly straight and jagged. Before gluing always check to make sure you have a good fit, and it looks good in place. Once checked I just used a small dab of super glue to fix them in place. Honestly it can look a little haphazard from the back, which is why I’ve stuck with adding it to terrain pieces you can’t really see inside. Here’s an example of one of the set’s I put together:

Terrain-guide-17And that, my friends, is how I did my Deadzone terrain. If there is anything you think I may have missed or if you would like me to expand on anything just let me know in the comments.

Look out later in the week for some pictures of the whole lot together 🙂

Tutorial – Deadzone Terrain Part 1

I’ve been working through getting all the terrain painted up for my set of Deadzone and wanted to give everybody a run through as to how I have been doing it from start to finish. This first part will be focusing on the main colour whilst I will be doing another couple of parts later on this week on the rest of the main colours as well as some of the detailing.

Construction: Before starting the painting I chose to glue all of the buildings, barricades and structures together. Whilst the clips are a useful idea ie being able to dismantle terrain after each battle/build them in different configurations, I felt this would be far too time consuming as well as leading to damaged clips needing replaced on a regular basis. Whilst I still used the clips in most instances to add some strength in areas, some sections where just glued on where there was enough support already (ceilings primarily). The only sections I didn’t glue together were each story of multi story structures. This allowed a bit more flexability when playing games, if for instance someone wanted to place a model inside, they didnt have to squeeze them through a window or door.

Painting: The first stage in getting the buildings painted up was an undercoat. I went with black:

Terrain-guide-1Once this had dried I applied a couple of coats of Doombull Brown until I had a nice flat colour all over:

Terrain-guide-2This is were I began the saltmasking, a technique I’ve used on all of my Rebs and a fair bit over the last few months. The first tutorial I used to get some help with this was found on Youtube, and you can see this here. I also found Whitewolves blog entry for this fairly useful, especially since it was the same kit.

The way I’ve done it was to give the terrain piece a healthy coat of hairspray (just a bog standard, cheap can from the supermarket), and sprinkle some salt over the areas I was looking for the weathering:

Terrain-guide-3I usually left this to dry for at least a couple of hours, just to be sure, but once dry its onto the top coat. This is were an airbrush comes in very handy and I would maybe even go so far as to say it is essential. You need very thin coats on top of the salt in order for you still to be able to remove it easily. So with airbrush in hand I gave the whole thing a coat of Rakkarth Flesh:

Terrain-guide-4This gives the main base colour, but to add a little more definition I then added a highlight coat of Menoth White Highlight but just over the top half of the terrain piece and at a 45 degree angle:

Terrain-guide-5The terrain is now ready to have the salt removed and then onto some proper painting :), which I’ll be going into in the next part.

Dreadball – Hazard Stripe Threat Markings


Been asked by a few folk how the threat markings on the Gamma Slammers was achieved and felt the easiest way to show people would be to put together a wee tutorial.

So first up here’s the supplies I used:

Clear Hex, Chaos Black, Mechanicus Standard Grey,   Codex Grey, Tau Light Ochre, Yriel Yellow & Skull White

Clear Hex, Chaos Black, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Codex Grey, Tau Light Ochre, Yriel Yellow & Skull White

Before I continue I will state I use a wet pallet, which means if you don’t I’d recommend watering down the colours slightly during each step. Anyway onto the first coat, which is just staright black over the threat area. You may need a couple of coats to get a flat black.


The next stage is adding the base of the stripes. I do this by eye, which can leave them a little uneven in places, but there are many masking tapes out there that would be perfect for getting it just right. I used Tau Light Ochre to paint three stripes on each hex facing(again, a couple of coats may be needed)…


It’s then on to some highlighting. I painted Yriel yellow onto the right(as you’re looking at the hex) and top of each of the lines leaving a little of the base colour showing through on the bottom left corner.


Following this I mixed a wee bit of white into the yellow and added another small highlight in the right top corner of each stripe…

JpegWith that the yellow is done. Now is a good time to go back with the black and clean up any slippages or uneven lines. Then its a similar method to highlight the black. A line of Mechanicum Standard Grey was painted down the right and along the top of each of the black lines…


And to finish it off a wee bit of Codex Grey was painted in the top right corner…


And there you have it. That’s how I painted the threat markings for the Slammers 😀

Dreadball Tutorial – Dreadball Gloves

So, with getting a lot of praise for the Dreadball gloves on the Silver Centurions (Really appreciate it folks :D), I’ve decided to put together a tutorial on how I did them.

The inspiration for giving them a go came from two places, the first was the front cover for Dreadball showing the fancy holo glove. The second was the Nidavellir Flames, a gorgeous Forgefather team. With a good idea in my head form these sources as to what I wanted to do I set out to find some suitable materials. I knew I wanted to have a slight curve to them so my first thought was clear plastic straws (these still might be suitable), but could only find coloured ones in any local stores. I then realised I had some plastic pipettes which I got off ebay, a hundred only cost a few quid:



Turned out they where perfect for the task, so I proceeded to hack ’em apart.

Stage 1

Stage 1

All I needed form them was the top section so using just a pair of scissors I cut them off.

Stage 2

Stage 2

I then proceeded to cut these into strips a little bit bigger than the size needed (worth having the mini handy for this)

Stage 3

Stage 3

Then it was a case of trimming it down to the correct width to fit in the “projector” part of the wrist and curve of one of the ends. Again I just used a pair of small scissors for this.

Stage 4

Stage 4

Next I curved off the opposite end, making sure I cut it to give the desired length. On my minis I made the gloves on the strikers about 150% the size of the ones on the jacks, just to make them a wee bit different but I also thought the strikers variation would be that little bit better. At the end of the day the length is up to you, so long as it fits onto the model 🙂

Paints used

Paints used

Next up was painting them. Above are the colours I used for mine, but I recommend going for a colour that will compliment your team. All you need is a midtone, a lighter version of this, white and lahmian medium.

Stage 5

Stage 5

To start the painting I used Caledor sky right around the end of the glove coming up to where it joins at the projector. The best way to do this, and the following highlights, is using just the flat of the brush against the edge of the plastic.

Stage 6

Stage 6

Next was a 1:1 mix of Caledor Sky and Ice blue, going around the edge again but leaving a small section of the original colour near the projector end.

Stage 7

Stage 7

Next was the same again but with pure Ice Blue and again leaving a little of the last colour showing.

Stage 8

Stage 8

And finally for the edge was a 1:1 mix of Ice Blue and White, just on the top most curve.

Stage 9

Stage 9

The last paint to add is to the projector end. I wanted to leave this section clear to show the innards of the projector showing through, but because I needed to use superglue to affix them, this left the white residue showing all over the glove. This was done with a 2:1 mix of Caledor Blue and Lahmian Medium. Make sure your brush strokes are going from the left to right (using the picture above), as this means the strongest of the paint will be at the projector end.

Stage 10

Stage 10

Next is the same but with a 2:1 mix of Caledor sky/Ice Blue and Lahmian Medium. Just as before, leaving some of the original colour showing at the edge.

Stage 11

Stage 11

Next is 2:1 mix of Ice Blue and Lahmian Medium.

Stage 12

Stage 12

And finally the edge highlight of 1:1 Ice Blue and White. Then all you need to do is stick it onto the mini 🙂

And there you have it, a simple but effective way to give your models some Dreadball Gloves. If you have any questions or anything was not clear in the above please let me know and if you give it a go I would love to see your results 😀