June’s issue of Tabletop Gaming is in shops now and inside you’ll find much guide on painting the awesome Dungeons & Doggies miniatures. Check them out below and buy your copy here.
This month’s issue of Tabletop Gaming Magazine is on stores now and inside you’ll find the guide I produced for a selection of monsters from Wizkids Nolzur’s Marvelous Miniatures range.
Here’s a look at the creatures and critters I worked on…
This was a follow on from the previous issue, in which I covered a few of the heroes…
Let’s take a peek at the latest article we have completed for issue 14 of Tabletop Gaming Magazine.
This month’s guide covers the villains from Mantic Games Star Saga, a sci-fi dungeon crawler set within the Warpath universe. Covering each of the 5 ‘bosses’ of the story set out within the Eidas Contract, the first mission book of what we hope will be many more. Here’s a look at the 5 big bads:
That’s only 5 out of 35 miniatures for the game, so keep an eye out for future guides for the rest of the miniatures!
Another article I realised I had not shared anything about was a guide I did, again for Tabletop Gaming Magazine, focussing on speed painting a Kings of War Ogre force. You can grab copy of the issue this guide was featured in here.
The guide primarily covers the speed painting of the main bulk of the force, but also goes into a more detailed process on the captain, a process that could easily be replicated across the whole force. This also gives a fantastic example of the two different levels of painting I tend to work towards when doing commissions. The captain shows off the more expensive but detailed approach, where as the rest of the force shows off the cheaper option.
Here’s some more images of the individual units…
A few months ago I painted up this Concord force to be used in a painting guide for Tabletop Gaming magazine and only just realised I’ve not shown off the finished models on here yet. Oops!
If you’re interested in getting a hold of a copy of the guide you can purchase the back issue here. In the meantime take a look at a few more image of the force…
The newest issue of Tabletop Gaming magazine is on sale today and inside you can find out how I painted up the Guardians of the Galaxy starter set for Knight Models Marvel miniature game.
You can get a hold of a copy of the magazine in physical form from your local W.H. Smiths, Tesco or your local gaming shop if they stock it(if they don’t, why not give them a wee push to get some copies in). You can also order a physical or a digital copy from the Tabletop Gaming website.
Her’s some more pictures of the models to wet your appetite 🙂
I was recently asked for some hints and tips on painting, specifically the Inquisitor Lorr model I painted over a year ago, on my Facebook page. So I thought I would gather my thoughts a bit, try and remember the colours and techniques I used and share with everybody how I achieved the paint job on this guy…
So without further ado let’s take a look at the first section, the reds…
I started these off with a straight up basecoat of Khorne Red, giving a couple of coats to ensure I had a nice flat base to work from.
This was followed by a wash of Agrax Earthshade. This wash more than anything was to show where the grooves and folds in the cloth were in order to better guide the following highlights.
The first of these highlights was with Mephiston Red, slightly watered down and applied over a couple of coats to get a nice bold colour. Make sure you leave only the recesses, shown by the previous wash, the original Khorne Red.
This was followed up with a highlight of Evil Sun Scarlet, making sure to keep some of the Mephiston Red highlight showing.
I then mixed a wee touch of White Scar into the Evil Sun Scarlet and applied a Highlight only to the very edges of the raised areas and following this just a few dabs of almost pure white.
The whole lot was then given a thin glaze of Bloodletter to help blend the colours together.
The black was started off, surprisingly, with a base of Abaddon Black.
The best way I’ve found to keep blacks looking nice and dark is to keep this basecoat as the most prominent colour, meaning any highlights applied are only on the folds and ridges. Even then only on the most prominent and keeping them to the very edges.
The first highlight was applied Mechanicus Standard Grey over a couple of watered down coats. Keep only a little of the watery paint on the brush and apply only a little to the edges at a time, and make sure the previous coat is dry before applying the next. Each successive coat should be kept a little closer to the edge than the last.
Do the same as above but this time with Dawnstone and then Celestra grey, just make sure to always keep a little of the previous colour showing through. The final highlight is a very light of touch of white, only on the very tips and points.
To finish it off give it a light wash of Nuln Oil, like the reds to blend the colours together.
The glow from the plasma pistol was by far the trickiest part to achieve, but don’t be daunted to give it a try. All it takes is a little patience. One of the most important things to keep in mind when doing this is how the light travels to try and get a realistic looking effect. It’s tricky to get right and I find the best way to get a good look at how it would work on your model is to shine a torch or small light from roughly the same area as whats going to be your light source. Keep a mental note of where the light touches and where is shadowed.
This was applied once the rest of the areas around the light source were fully painted. I started it off by applying a very watered down coat of 2:1 Sotek Green and White Scar. You want about 4 parts water added in and only a light amount of the mix on your brush. Be gentle and apply the paint sparsely, building it up over several layers, getting the colour bolder towards the centre of the light source.
The next stage was to use the same technique as above but this time using only Lothern Blue and water. As before ensure you always leave a little of the last coat showing through. From here keep adding a little White Scar to the mix, and adding a coat of each mix, until it’s pretty much pure white being applied only to the very edges.
And there you have it. That’s how I did the main colours on my Gideon Lorr mini. If you have any other questions on how I painted this or any other figures you have seen on the site just give me a holler 🙂
So I have just recently finished painting up and putting together a painting guide for this group of misfits. Several players from the Guildball Union faction, that I have tried to paint to match the artwork found on the character cards.
Normally you would find said painting guide right here on the site, but this one is a wee bit different and will only be appearing in the pages of Tabletop Gaming Magazine!
So if you want to find out how I painting these chaps, and get a good read whilst your at it, you can order a copy here: Tabletop Gaming Magazine
I’d also recommend checking out their Facebook page to keep abreast of news of whats coming in the next issue.
I’ll be back soon with an update on what my painting and gaming habits have been like of late and working on another painting guide :), but before that check out some close ups of these Guildball mini’s…
With the main bulk of my Plague force fully painted and ready to rip some faces off, I thought I would share the methods I used to get them looking how I did these guys…
Flesh: Basecoat of Pallid Wych Flesh
Wash of 3:1 Druchii Violet and Lahmian Medium
Wait for the previous wash to dry and add a light wash of 3:1 Drakenhof Nightshade and Lahmian Medium
Once dry add a fine highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh
Blue trousers: Basecoat Kantor Blue
Highlight of Altdorf Guard Blue
Highlight 1:1 Altdorf Guard Blue and White
Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Altdorf Guard Blue
Orangey Brown Sectons: Basecoat Tau Light Ochre
Wash of Agrax Earthshade
Highlight of Tau Light Ochre
Fine highlight of 1:1 Tau Light Ochre and Pallid Wych Flesh
Guns, Blades & Metals: Basecoat of Doombull Brown
Stipple on Trollslayer Orange then Fire Dragon Bright
Lightly drybrush Leadbelcher to the edges
Wash of Agrax Earthshade
Fine highlight of Leadbelcher to some of the edges and stippled onto larger areas
Green Spines & Armour Plates: Basecoat of Caliban Green
Highlight of Snot Green
Highlight of Moot Green
Fine Highlight of 2:1 White and Moot Green
Glowy Green Faces: Add a coat of watered down Moot Green on and around the eyes and mouth. This should be about 5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Allow to dry and then add a coat of 3:1:1 Water, Moot Green and White, leaving the outer most parts the original colour
To finish off add a dab of 3:1 White and Moot Green to the centre
Jackets, Straps and Pouches: Basecoat in Black
Add a highlight of Mechanicus Standard Grey
Highlight with Codex Grey
Fine Highlight of Celestra Grey
Wash with Badab Black
Belt Buckles: Basecoat XV88
Highlight with 2:1 XV88 and Yriel Yellow
Highlight Yriel Yellow
Fine Highlight 1:1 Yriel Yellow and White
Bases: The first step for my bases was done before any undercoating and was as simple as adding a coat of the GW texture paint Astrogranite. This gives it the texture, but with enough spacing between them to feel like a concrete surface. It also has the added bonus of filling and hiding the seam around the circular section around the feet and the slot in the base.
Once the rest of the figure was painted I then moved onto the base as the last step.
First was a basecoat of Mechanicus Standard Grey
Then a drybrush of Codex Grey
Another drybrush this time with Clestial Grey
And a final drybrush of Terminatus Stone
To make it feel a bit more natural I then added a coat of watered down Dryad Bark to most of the base. I reccomend a very thin coat, at least 5:1 Water and Dryad Bark
I then added small patches of a 5:1 mix of Water and Doombull brown to add further variation.
Finally I painted the rims of the bases black to tidy them up a bit.
And there you have it, nice and simple but good looking none the less, even if I do say so myself 😀
If I happened to miss anything that you want to know about, just leave me a comment 🙂