Middle Earth SBG – Ancient Ruins Painting Guide

This guide is ideally suited for painting the bases I showed you how to make in this tutorial.

I’ve used the same basing technique for both my Azog’s Legion and my White Council, but with a few subtle changes to the painting in order to give them a different character. I’ll be going through the stages for both in full but there are only a few differences between them, but you’ll notice from the picture they end up looking fairly different.

Eerie Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Death World Forest
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Dark Green Leaves

Begin by basecoating the base with Sotek Green, then apply a heavy drybrush of Eshin Grey

Apply a medium drybrush of Dawnstone

Apply a light drybrush of Ionach Skin

Apply an edge highlight to the tiles with Pallid Wych Flesh

Make a mix of 1 part Chocolate Brown and 5 parts water and apply over the sanded areas

Make a similar mix with Death World Forest and apply over select areas of the sand

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone I’ve the sand and edges of the cork

Apply a very light drybrush of Pallid Wych Flesh to the sand

Apply some of the mountain tufts to the base

Use PVA to apply the grass around the tufts and across the sandy areas

Finally use PVA glue to affix some leaves to the base. This can be a little fiddly so I would recommend some tweazers

Dark Ruins

What you will need:

  • Citadel Rhinox Hide
  • Citadel Eshin Grey
  • Citadel Dawnstone
  • Citadel Ionach Skin
  • Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh
  • Vallejo Chocolate Brown
  • Citadel Karak Stone
  • Army Painter Steppe Grass
  • Army Painter Mountain Tufts
  • Autumn Leaves
  • Alclad II ‘mud’ weathering pigment

Apply a basecoat of Rhinox Hide to the base and once dry apply a medium drybrush of Eshin Grey across the base

Apply a light drybrush of Dawnstone, focussing on the edges of the tiles

Apply a very light drybrush of Ionach Skin to the edges of the tiles

Apply an edge highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh to the tiles

Use the same Chocolate Brown mix found in the Eerie Ruins guide and apply to the sand areas and exposed cork

Apply a light drybrush of Karak Stone to the sand and exposed cork

Apply a very light Pallid Wych Flesh drybrush to the sand and exposed cork

Apply the mountain tufts to the base

Apply a light dusting of weathering powder to the top and edges

Use PVA to affix some autumn leaves to the base to finish

 

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Tabletop Gaming Magazine – Star Saga Painting Guide!

Let’s take a peek at the latest article we have completed for issue 14 of Tabletop Gaming Magazine.

This month’s guide covers the villains from Mantic Games Star Saga, a sci-fi dungeon crawler set within the Warpath universe. Covering each of the 5 ‘bosses’ of the story set out within the Eidas Contract, the first mission book of what we hope will be many more. Here’s a look at the 5 big bads:


That’s only 5 out of 35 miniatures for the game, so keep an eye out for future guides for the rest of the miniatures!

Beyond the Gates of Antares – Concord Strike Force

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A few months ago I painted up this Concord force to be used in a painting guide for Tabletop Gaming magazine and only just realised I’ve not shown off the finished models on here yet. Oops!

If you’re interested in getting a hold of a copy of the guide you can purchase the back issue here. In the meantime take a look at a few more image of the force…

CommandSquad-2Squad-1Weapon-TeamDrones-2Drones-1

Tabletop Gaming Issue 5 – Guardians of the Galaxy

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The newest issue of Tabletop Gaming magazine is on sale today and inside you can find out how I painted up the Guardians of the Galaxy starter set for Knight Models Marvel miniature game.

You can get a hold of a copy of the magazine in physical form from your local W.H. Smiths, Tesco or your local gaming shop if they stock it(if they don’t, why not give them a wee push to get some copies in). You can also order a physical or a digital copy from the Tabletop Gaming website.

Her’s some more pictures of the models to wet your appetite 🙂

Starlord-2Drax-2Gamora-2Rocket-2

How to Paint Inquisitor Lorr

I was recently asked for some hints and tips on painting, specifically the Inquisitor Lorr model I painted over a year ago, on my Facebook page. So I thought I would gather my thoughts a bit, try and remember the colours and techniques I used and share with everybody how I achieved the paint job on this guy…

Lor6

So without further ado let’s take a look at the first section, the reds…

Red

I started these off with a straight up basecoat of Khorne Red, giving a couple of coats to ensure I had a nice flat base to work from.

This was followed by a wash of Agrax Earthshade. This wash more than anything was to show where the grooves and folds in the cloth were in order to better guide the following highlights.

The first of these highlights was with Mephiston Red, slightly watered down and applied over a couple of coats to get a nice bold colour. Make sure you leave only the recesses, shown by the previous wash, the original Khorne Red.

This was followed up with a highlight of Evil Sun Scarlet, making sure to keep some of the Mephiston Red highlight showing.

I then mixed a wee touch of White Scar into the Evil Sun Scarlet and applied a Highlight only to the very edges of the raised areas and following this just a few dabs of almost pure white.

The whole lot was then given a thin glaze of Bloodletter to help blend the colours together.

Black

The black was started off, surprisingly, with a base of Abaddon Black.

The best way I’ve found to keep blacks looking nice and dark is to keep this basecoat as the most prominent colour, meaning any highlights applied are only on the folds and ridges. Even then only on the most prominent and keeping them to the very edges.

The first highlight was applied Mechanicus Standard Grey over a couple of watered down coats. Keep only a little of the watery paint on the brush and apply only a little to the edges at a time, and make sure the previous coat is dry before applying the next. Each successive coat should be kept a little closer to the edge than the last.

Do the same as above but this time with Dawnstone and then Celestra grey, just make sure to always keep a little of the previous colour showing through. The final highlight is a very light of touch of white, only on the very tips and points.

To finish it off give it a light wash of Nuln Oil, like the reds to blend the colours together.

Lighting

The glow from the plasma pistol was by far the trickiest part to achieve, but don’t be daunted to give it a try. All it takes is a little patience. One of the most important things to keep in mind when doing this is how the light travels to try and get a realistic looking effect. It’s tricky to get right and I find the best way to get a good look at how it would work on your model is to shine a torch or small light from roughly the same area as whats going to be your light source. Keep a mental note of where the light touches and where is shadowed.

This was applied once the rest of the areas around the light source were fully painted. I started it off by applying a very watered down coat of 2:1 Sotek Green and White Scar. You want about 4 parts water added in and only a light amount of the mix on your brush. Be gentle and apply the paint sparsely, building it up over several layers, getting the colour bolder towards the centre of the light source.

The next stage was to use the same technique as above but this time using only Lothern Blue and water. As before ensure you always leave a little of the last coat showing through. From here keep adding a little White Scar to the mix, and adding a coat of each mix, until it’s pretty much pure white being applied only to the very edges.

And there you have it. That’s how I did the main colours on my Gideon Lorr mini. If you have any other questions on how I painted this or any other figures you have seen on the site just give me a holler 🙂